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jargon

Abrasion Resistance

The ability of a footwear component to withstand wear caused by abrasion.

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Advanced Manufacturing Technology

Abbreviation: AMT

Advanced manufacturing technology is the integrated use of Computer Aided Design (CAD), Computer Aided Manufacture (CAM) and robotics to produce shoes & footwear more cheaply and more efficiently.

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Alcohol

Alcohol is a term used in shoemaking to refer to a solvent used for cleaning made with an alcohol base.

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Break

A natural crease created across the vamp of a shoe from everyday flexing and wear.

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Bunching

A term referring to the bunching or depositing of bottom filling material at different places after shifting from its original place, forming humps and causing annoyance to the wearer.

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CE Mark

A mark of conformity used to demonstrate compliance with a number of European Directives.

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Choo

Any shoe by the Jimmy Choo label.

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Chucks

Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars canvas sneaker-style shoes.

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Circumference

The measurement around the shaft of a boot which is taken at the widest part near the top of the boot shaft.

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ClimaCool ®

A venting and cooling system developed and used by Adidas brand footwear with flexible screened vents to keep feet cool.

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Colour Fastness

The Resistance of a materials colour to fading after prolonged exposure to the elements during manufacture and their subsequent use.

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Crock

Particles which can be removed from suede leather by dry rubbing are known as crock.

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Dri-lex ®

A dual layered configuration composed of Hydrofil, a moisture absorbing nylon fiber as an underlayer, and a moisture resisting outer layer knitted together.

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Eco Labeling

Labeling awarded to a product indicating that the product meets agreed standards for environmental impact during the products production, distribution, use and disposal.

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Elasticity

The property of a body or material by which it stretches or undergoes other deformation under stress and resumes its original form when the stress is removed.

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Elastomer

Refers to any material that has elastic properties. The ability to stretch or change shape and then return to its original shape and size without any damage to its atomic structure.

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Energy Return

In running and athletic shoes, it is the response after the foot strikes the ground, a sort of propulsion that helps maintain an effective "gait" or stride.

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Flare

The width of the heel at the bottom of the outer sole in relation to the width of the heel at the top of the outsole. Normally a moderate amount of flare, i.e., wider at the bottom, improves stability and motion control.

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Flexibility

The ease with which the bottom or upper components of a shoe can be bent. This is one of the requisite properties of a shoe component in order to facilitate foot movement during walking or running.

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Flexwelts ™

Underfoot system with Poron® to reduce shock and odour. Leather soles with flexible, slip-resistant rubber inserts. Comfortable straight from the box.

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Fuck-me pumps

Very high heeled, pointed-toe stiletto shoes.

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Gelactiv ™

Dynamic gel technology that provides a unique shock absorber for feet.

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Gore-Tex®

W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. registered brand name for a waterproof-breathable membrane. The material is impermeable to water droplets but allows water vapor to pass through it. In footwear it is used between the upper material and the lining.

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Grindery

The trade name for consumables such as tacks, eyelets, tapes, shanks etc., used in shoemaking.

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Heel Pitch

Heel pitch is the angle between heel and base line. If heel axis is not vertical damage to the footwear may occur with use.

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Heel to Ball Measurement

The measured distance to the ball of the foot from the heel end.

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Hydrophilic

Water friendly. Does not hold water in leather or any of the materials used in the shoe. Allows water to escape and the shoe to dry quickly.

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Lucite

A type of clear hard plastic that is often used in dress shoes.

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Lycra/Neoprene

A blend of stretch fabric and neoprene rubber, ideal for a waterproof and sporty soft lining.

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Manolo Shoes

Shoes by Spanish shoe designer, Manolo Blahnik.

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Metamerism

Metamerism is a peculiarity of colours whereby two materials judged to be an identical colour match in one lighting condition appear markedly different in another lighting condition.

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Nap

The term used to describe a velvety surface of leather or cloth. In leather the nap is created by buffing with sandpaper.

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Permiability

The ability of a material to allow water or water vapour through its thickness.

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Pinked

Detailing characterized by a sawtooth edge.

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Pret-a-porter

Ready to wear or more correctly ready to take away.

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Pronation

The inward rolling of the foot during running or walking, potentially a source of injury.

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Shaft Height

The measurement of the shaft of a boot. The shaft height measurement is made from the inside seam where the instep and sole meet, to the top of the boot.

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Shoe Envy

Extreme jealousy at the sight of someone else in shoes that are better than yours.

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Shoe Sizes

The variation between full sizes is one-third of an inch, while the difference between half sizes and full sizes is one-sixth of an inch. This system of sizes is based on a decree made by Edward II in 1324.

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Softee Leather

A general term used to describe leather that is both soft and flexible.

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Spandex/Neoprene

A combination of stretchy Spandex fabric and soft neoprene rubber, a soft and waterproof material usually used as a lining.

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Sprue

Also known as: Flash

Sprues occur in moulded or vulcanised shoes where excess PVC or rubber is extruded where mould parts join. Sprues are generally trimmed off before footwear is boxed.

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Synthetic

Relating to, involving, or of the nature of Synthesis. Synthesis is the combining of separate elements or substances to form a coherent whole.

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Texon ®

A cellulose-based insole material that is more resistant to aging and dampness than leather insoles.

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Toe Spring

The upward curvature of a sole at the forepart relative to ground level when shoes are on a level surface. Toe spring is related to the stiffness of the sole and heel height. The more rigid the sole, the greater the toe spring that has to be provided.

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Traction

The amount of grip a shoe provides on the surface for which it was designed.

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Vibram®

A type of durable, non-slip, outsole typically found on hiking boots. Vibram is a registered trademark of Vibram S.P.A

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Width

The width of a shoe is typically measured in letters (AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EEE, EEEE) and refers to the width of the shoe last as measured at the ball of the foot. Widths are defined in one-sixths of an inch.

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